Up with the sun, I left Wadi Musa in a car with a nice Czech couple to Wadi Rum about an hour and a half away. When people talk about the Arabian desert, this is usually the place they’re talking about. It’s arid, sandy, and hot, the Bedouin people have been living and thriving here for thousands of years, this was the home and stomping grounds of TE Lawrence of Arabia during the Arab revolts in the early 20th century, and pretty much every movie ever made that takes place on Mars was filmed here as you’ll soon see why. Most recently, though, it became the subject of this Holy Crap adventure.

The desert actually extends for hundreds and hundreds of miles around Jordan and into Saudi Arabia, but Jordan has designated this roughly 450 square mile area as a protected area. There are many all inclusive camps throughout where you can stay and take jeep and camel tours to various spots. I spent four days here because I of course wanted to see it all. My first day I spent at a camp in the northern part to hike and see the sites there. The next three days I spent at a camp further south for a more organized three day tour. Breakfast and dinner are served at the camp, but lunch every day is cooked Bedouin style over a fire in the desert. At night I laid down and gazed up at the stars and spotted meteors streaking across the Milky Way. Incredible! (below: Rum Stars Camp. My tent was the second from the left and inside was surprisingly nice.)

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There are no roads in Wadi Rum. Traditionally the Bedouin got around on camels and that’s still the case, but they’ve also incorporated an army of Toyotas to help out. Whether on a camel, in a Toyota, or on foot, you’ll be making your way through oceans of sand. Day one was primarily in a jeep zipping around to all the big highlights, historical springs in the sides of mountains, crazy rock formations, and all three days were filled with one astonishing viewpoint after another.

Also scattered throughout the area are many ancient inscriptions. I visited at least five such sites and they were all fascinating.

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Day two was about hiking. After a long drive in our trusty Toyota, we hiked up to Jabal Umm Hash near the border for a sneak peak into Saudi Arabia. Our guide, Ridah, says they used to sneak across the border at night to visit cousins on the other side, but the Saudis recently installed cameras putting a stop to that.

Due to all the tire tracks running this way and that in all directions, sand dunes are unfortunately hard to find. I did manage to find a few small areas of virgin red sand though. After all, what desert experience would be complete without proper sand dunes? I also climbed up a massive sand dune and then to the top of the mountain sticking up out of it for yet another amazing view. It was hard work!

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Day three was camel day. This was my first time riding a camel. It’s similar to riding a horse, just a rougher ride and you’re considerably higher up. I just love camels, by the way. Aside from being cute and cantankerous, they’re really amazing creatures. Getting up and down is like being on a rollercoaster, first you lean waaaaay back as he lifts his front legs, then you lean waaaaay forward as he rights his back legs (see the series below). Getting down is the same in reverse. You have to hold on tight! After six hours on that camel my legs were begging for mercy. It was actually hard work. I don’t know how these guys do it day in day out.

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I’m so glad I stayed here as long as I did. Most people only seem to breeze through in a day, but there’s so much to see here. If I had to describe this place in one word, it would be BIG. Big mountains, big expanses of dunes, big skies, and big hearts. The Bedouins are unbelievably welcoming and generous and happy. The owner of the camp told me he’s never left the desert, never seen a city and doesn’t want to. That seems to be the general consensus too. They love it here!

Well, my time in beautiful Wadi Rum is over. This place is truly a unique part of the planet. I’m so grateful I got the chance to see it. Now, it’s back to Amman for one night, then I’m on a plane to explore one more middle eastern country. That’s right! This trip isn’t over yet, so don’t go anywhere…

There’s lots more pics of Wadi Rum here