From the chaos of Addis Ababa straight to what is arguably the most popular tourist destination in all of Ethiopia, Lalibela. The town sits at almost 7800ft above sea level and the green hills and mountains all around are just stunning! You need to be in shape to be here because every street and walkway is on a definite tilt.

Most of the history of Lalibela is steeped in mystery. It apparently rose to prominence with the Zagwe empire when the Axumite empire collapsed. The most famous and revered Zagwe ruler was Gebre Meskel Lalibela who, according to the legends, carved a complex of 13 subterranean churches out of the very rock beneath the towns feet in the 12th century. Archeologists believe the churches were carved at various times throughout the towns history, but in any case, they are fascinating. They are indeed carved right out of the rock and they are all connected by various trenches and tunnels. It’s one of the most famous historical sites in the world that you’ve never heard of.

Some of the churches have attendant priests inside that will show off the churches treasures and the centuries old religious paintings. All of the centuries old manuscripts inside were written in ink made from local plants and on “paper” made from goat skin (see the pic below). They’re all pretty unique, some with intricately carved columns and naves inside, others are just basically a cave. Dotted around the complex walls and sometimes inside the churches themselves are tombs carved out of the rock that used to hold the dead, but now serve as cells for the priests and religious hermits living here. 

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The best example of these carved churches and the undisputed showpiece of Lalibela, though, is Bet Giyorgis (St George). After King Lalibela carved out the complex he was paid a visit by St George who was apparently upset that there were no churches dedicated to him. So the king made this one… overnight. It’s the only one shaped like a cross and it is beautiful. The inside has some great ceiling work, but is otherwise very austere.

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Outside of Lalibela, I visited two other ancient churches carved right out of the rock, only this time they were carved out of the sides of mountains. First was about an hour walk to Nakuta La’ab. Water from springs drips through the mountain falling like a light rain until it is caught by carved stone basins inside the church and used as holy water.

Next was a grueling hike up the tallest mountain east of town to the 13th century Asheton Maryam church. Along the way I met Abeba and her brother Abraham who lived in the small village about half way up. They were on their way home from school in Lalibela, they make the climb every day! Anyway, they walked with me a while then invited me to their home for coffee and a rest before continuing on. The village is set in an idyllic field of green and eucalyptus trees and their home is a small cluster of round huts made of mud and wood by their father. Hanging out with them and their family for that brief time was one of the most positive cultural exchanges I’ve had. After the rest, Abeba guided me the rest of the way up to the church, where the priest was happy to show off the collection of 700 year old bibles and manuscripts, and then to the very top of the mountain for amazing views of Lalibela and, well, everything!

Lalibela has been a pretty fun stop all things considered. I left out the tales of pushy and manipulative would be guides and the hitchhikers I pick up everywhere I go. I’ve been unable to walk anywhere in this country unescorted so far. But now it’s time to continue north. The next week and a half or so of this trip is going to move pretty quickly. Until the next post…

See all the pics from Lalibela here